12 April 2006 Wednesday

Mark and Sharon went off to work and we toured Santa Barbara.  Andrew’s bike was having problems so we found a bike shop and dropped it off.  We parked at the Santa Barbara pier and took a tram down State Street, dropping us a few blocks from the old Mission built in the late 1700’s, when California was founded.  At the end of the tram line, we walked about a mile thru beautiful residential area to the Santa Barbara Mission.  The San Xavier Mission we saw in Arizona was built about the same time, but was far more ornate than the Santa Barbara Mission, which was rebuilt in the 1800’s after being destroyed after an earthquake.  We walked back to the downtown area thru a park full of beautiful flowers and trees.  We stopped of lunch at the Santa Barbara Brewing Company.  We continued back to our truck where we had parked next to a stake park.  We watch people state, roller blade and skateboard for a few minutes.  

We picked up Andrew’s bike, ran a few errands and went back to Mark and Sharon’s for a shower and fresh fruit.  Their Landlady, Mary, has lots of fruit and Macadamia nut trees on her property and invited us to take what we wanted.  We picked some Macadamia nuts and loquats (a loquat is a tropical fruit that tastes something between a peach and a mango), we also got a couple of oranges, lemons and grapefruits.  We left Santa Barbara and headed towards Carrizo Plain.  We found some BLM land access along the way and stopped for the night.

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11 April 2006 Tuesday

We continued up Rte 33 and the drive was beautiful.  Huge mountains, misty, foggy, a whitewater stream running alongside the road.  It reminded me a lot of the Appalachians.  We continued to the point that the road was closed at a campground.  This campground wanted $20.00 and the facilities were nothing but a pit toilet! We were looking for a place just to park and take a nap.  We found a place to pull off on the side of the road next to a wonderful mountain stream.  We’re high in the mountains, near the San Andreas Fault.  It’s cloudy, misty and very different from the desert we’ve been in lately.  

We went back into Ojai, CA and walked around the downtown area.  There were several art galleries with wonderful stuff.  One place, Primavera Gallery, had some glass paperweights that were really incredible (I have a collection of glass paperweights in storage).  Most of these were way out of my price range, but beautiful, nonetheless.  We stopped at the Los Padres National Forest Service office for some info.  We found out the road that is closed by mudslide is estimated to be closed for 6 to 8 weeks.  Some pretty serious damage.  The spots along the road that were one lane were a result of last years “hundred year” flooding.  We’ve been running into the result’s from last years flooding all over this region.  

We drove thru Santa Barbara and up to an area with a cave full of pictographs.  The Chumash Painted Cave is a state historic site and is gated for it’s own protection.  They did leave an opening for cameras.  From on top of the mountains, we had an incredible view of the Pacific Ocean and the Channel Islands until we got up into the clouds.  We parked and just enjoyed the area while we saw two different groups of locals take repeated turns running through an enormous mud puddle around the corner.  This just proves there are rednecks everywhere.  

We for to Mark and Sharon Tollifson’s place in time to visit a little while before sitting down to a wonderful dinner they had made.  They are both involved in the Wilderness Youth Project and take young people outdoors to learn primitive skills and respect for the earth.  Today’s generation is the first to grow up with no connection with the outdoors at all and studies are showing that kids need that connection. 

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10 April 2006 Monday

Rachel and Ricardo had to head back to work, so it’s time for us to head out.  They have an avocado tree in the backyard full of fruit, so we took some with us.  We were able o do a quick load of laundry, packed up the truck and hit the road towards Malibu.

We took the scenic drive up the Malibu coast and stopped for a brief walk at Point Dume State Park.  We walked down to the beach and checked out a few tidal pools with several starfish and sea urchins and we saw a couple of guys surfing.  We then hiked up to an overlook on the point.

Later that evening, we had dinner with Andrew’s cousin and his wife, Roger and Penny Bowman.  We met them at a BBQ place called the Wood Ranch.  It was delicious! We had planned to go up to Los Padres National Forest to camp near Ojai, but we found out at dinner that, just this afternoon, a mud slide had closed to road!  Well, we headed up Rte 33 anyway and found many areas of road down to one lane due to slides.

We got to the city of Ojai and camped in the parking lot of a motel, since it was getting late.  We set an alarm to get up early and out of there. 

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09 April 2006 Sunday

We went down to Venice Beach, CA and walked down the famous boardwalk.  We saw “Muscle Beach”, but we didn’t see the “muscles” that made it famous.  They must have been out to lunch.  We had a sausage at Toby Maroni’s and walked out to a big drum circle on the beach.  We put our feet in the Pacific Ocean, it was cold and dirty.  Sad [:(]  Ricardo also drove us through an area called Manhattan Beach, the Rich and Famous area of Venice Beach.  We drove back to Rachel and Ricardo’s place where they cooked us a wonderful dinner.  We also researched several of the beer we got yesterday and a few of the wines of Ricardo’s.  Ricardo is quite the wine expert and suggested several vineyards we should visit in Napa Valley.  

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08 April 2006 Saturday

Everyone slept in.  We got out around noon and went to a beer and wine store nearby and got several beers to… research. Wink [;)]  We headed into LA with our tour guides, Rachel and Ricardo.  Ricardo has pretty much lived in the area for a long time and knows his way around well.  We drove down Hollywood Blvd and walked around.  We walked down the “Walk of Fame” and saw many of the stars in the sidewalk, we walked in front of Grauman’s Chinese Theater.  The theater had lots of people in costumes from different movies out playing with the crowd out front, Homer Simpson, The Grinch, Pinhead from “Hellraiser”, and lots more that I couldn’t identify.  There were several street performers, playing music, dancing, a Michael Jackson impersonator, kind of a carnival atmosphere.  We drove up to see the “Hollywood” sign, got out and hiked up to get a closer look.  We stopped at one of Ricardo’s favorite “Watering Holes” for a quick beer and to get out of the crowds for a minute.  Next we drove down Sunset Blvd, Rodeo Drive, through Beverly Hills.  For dinner we stopped at the Redondo Beach Brewing Company (Andrew was born in Redondo Beach).  

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07 April 2006 Friday

Rachel and Ricardo went to work and Andrew and I had errands to run.  We finally got a haircut at a place Ricardo suggested.  We also got our new propane tank filled.  We’ve been using the 1 pound propane canisters, but they are non-refillable, not easily recyclable and becoming expensive.  So during our trip to REI, we purchased a 5 pound refillable tank and the hose required to fit our stove.  When Rachel and Ricardo got home from work we all went out to the Getty Museum and heard a great band called Bad Haggis, an Irish-Scottish-Fusion-Rock type of band that has played on many major movie soundtracks.  We walked around the Getty Museum a little and went out to dinner at a great Mexican Restaurant, Guelaguetza.  Ricardo told us this place is Oaxacan, which is an area known for their mole (mo-lay) sauce.  A mole sauce is a unique mixture of chili and chocolate and apparently requires a fine balancing of ingredients.  I’ve had mole before and have not been real fond of it.  Tonight we had several different mole sauces and they were all great!

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06 April 2006 Thursday

The wind died down by morning, making breakfast easier.  We’ve got a schedule today: we have a dental appointment in Los Angeles at 2:15.  We’re visiting with Rachel and Ricardo Montecino in Long Beach and Ricardo suggested his dentist Dr Stelmach in LA when Andrew mentioned we were due for a cleaning.   The staff is really nice and Michelle, the hygienist, can talk your ear off! (In a very sweet, professional way, of course!)   LA is really particular about parking and there were issues about us parking on the street after 4pm.  With the bikes on top, we couldn’t fit in their parking deck.  So I went first and when finished, moved the truck to another lot and waited for Andrew. 

We’ve been making a list for stuff we need from REI (outdoor gear store) for weeks and we finally got to pick up a few things.  We also got a few errands taken care of before meeting Rachel and Ricardo at their house in Long Beach, outskirts of LA.  We stayed up way too late visiting and talking.

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05 April 2006 Wednesday

It’s still raining off and on.  We had enough time to snap a few photos of a rainbow across the desert but not enough time to make coffee and breakfast.  We decided not to hike out to an old homestead from the 1930’s.  

We took a four wheel drive road out and drove around to the other side of the park where it wasn’t raining.  The wind is blowing fiercely, and there’s nothing in the terrain to get shelter from it.  We did a hike through a slot canyon.  The whole area is badlands, an area that is barren and eroded into bizarre formations.  We couldn’t find a clear trail but we did find our way down and into the canyon.  It was really cool, but it did creep me out with sand and small rocks dropping down on me from the windy ridge above.  

We drove out to do another short 1 mile hike to see a rare Elephant Tree.  It’s a Sonoran desert tree that’s at the edge of it’s habitat.  There were more at one time, but we saw the last one surviving here (they typically grow much further south).  We drove out to do another hike to wind caves.  We drove up a wash (a dry creek bed that is the road here) through a badlands canyon.   We got out to take this hike and the wind kicked up and threw sand and rocks at us hard enough to hurt!  We decided that this is a sign and we bailed out on this hike.  We drove out to Font’s point for an incredibly surreal view of he whole badlands area.  The wind was blowing hard and cold as the sun was setting.  I went back to the truck and Andrew check it out and took move photos.  

There were no campsites at Font’s Point, so we went up the road a little to a primitive campground called Arroyo Salado.  The wind has been howling all day and is still 50 mph or more, making dinner a challenge.  Andrew braved the wind to make spaghetti while I made salads inside the cab of the truck.

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04 April 2006 Tuesday

The dirt bikes and ATVs came out this morning.  At one point I counted six ATVs running up and down these hills that were 50 feet high or more.  The ATVs would move on and then dirt bikes come out for a while.  We were working on the computers a little because we had a cell signal and could upload some stuff to the website.  As we left, we found out we were in Ocotillo Wells Off Road Vehicle Rec. Area, just outside of Anza-Borrego SP.  A few miles up we found several more camping spots inside the park (that does not allow firearms!)  We drove through the town of Borrego Springs which is surrounded by the park.  We found the park headquarters and were surprised to find an underground building.   It makes sense, I suppose, since it can get to 120 degrees here in the summer and the earth makes great insulation.  We talked with a volunteer who helped us plan a few hikes in the area.  We chose a few interesting ones, on opposite sides of the park.  This park is huge, 600,000 acres and growing!  

We took a nice drive to the south end of the park for a hike to some Native American pictographs.  Petroglyphs, which we’ve seen before, are images chipped or scratched into the rock.  Pictographs use earthen pigments and some form of binder to create drawings in colors on the rocks.  We saw only one rock with several drawings on it.  The red pigments were quite clear, but it looked like a faded yellow had been used too.  We hiked a little further to an area that overlooks an area called Smuggler’s Cove and the valley below.  There are a few more hikes nearby, but we’re running out of daylight, so we found a great campsite behind a big rock and sheltered by some creosote bushes.  Rain clouds moved in and turned the sky some beautiful colors.  We were in bed in the back of the truck by the time it started raining.  We’ve been in the desert for a month and we haven’t dealt much with rain.  It was kind of strange because even though it was raining, directly above us we could see a clear sky with the moon and stars shining brightly.  

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Southern Arizona

Our next stop was Southern Arizona, an area completely foreign to both Teresa and I.  As we headed further West, the desert landscape slowly changes as we move from Chihuahuan Desert to Sonoran Desert.  Some of the mountains were more spectacular than I expected.  I was expecting desert certainly and got plenty of desert, but I wasn’t expecting mountains with snow on them.  These mountains pop up out of the desert floor, capturing more rainfall and allowing a pine-oak forest to thrive.  They are known as sky islands.  They are beautiful places to spend time in Southern Arizona and must be an absolute blessing to the nature lover in the heat of the summer.

Our first example of a sky island was Chiricahua National Monument in Southeastern Arizona.  This spot was not on our original list of places to see, but was recommended to us by a very nice retired National Park Superintendent we met on the road.  I sure am glad we did not miss this outstanding destination.  The mountains of the sky island were beautiful enough, but top that off with amazing rock spires over a hundred feet tall and balanced rocks.  We were lucky enough to get the last two spots on the hikers shuttle and had a great nine mile, one way, downhill hike through the strangely shaped spires.

In former blog entries, we mentioned that we were disappointed that US Customs and Border Protection had closed the Big Bend border crossings.  We still wanted to have a quick multi-cultural experience, so we had lunch in Agua Prieta (translation: dirty water or dark water), parking our car in Douglas, AZ.  We bought a trinket in a shop where the owner spoke a little English and she recommended a little restaurant called Doña Maria.  Teresa got a boring tostada plate, but I wanted something that was really authentic, so I attempted, in my horrendous Spanish, to ask what others were enjoying.  I ended up getting comida corrida, which, literally translated, means "food in excess".  Of course, I didn’t know this at the time;  we just figured it was the daily special.  The waiter told me it had pork, but he didn’t say what part of the pig the "meat" came from.  Anyhow, I ended up with a plate of pork skins in a delicious green chile sauce.  Amazingly enough, I suffered no intestinal distress.  And remember, I’m the type of person who can trim fat off of a anorexic chicken!  Smile

Throughout our journeys in Southern Arizona, we kept hearing about this Coronado guy.  Well, we finally learned who he was at the Coronado National Memorial.  Soon after coming through the door of the visitor center, a park service volunteer ran over to me and started dressing me up in chain mail so I get get a good feel for what Coronado’s men went through.  It weighed a ton!  Anyhow, turns out Francisco Vásquez de Coronado explored what is currently now the Southwestern USA in search of  "cities of gold," from 1540-1542.  Of course, after appeasing the natives a bit, he planned to claim these lands for the king of Spain.  Well, obviously, the "cities of gold" did not exist, and all he found were some natives living in adobe huts.  He returned to Mexico City a broken man, struggling to clear his family name. He died ten years after his journey completed in 1552.  However, he is commemorated for opening the door to a cross border influence between Spain and America that still exists today.  Given the weight of the chain mail, and the intense heat and lack of water in the Southwest, it is a miracle that he completed the journey at all!

Another place that was recommended to us by many different folks was Kartcher Caverns State Park.  We ended up taking their Big Room tour.  The cave has an amazing story, about how it came to be a show cave.  Basically, two cave explorers discovered it in 1974.  In order to keep the cave pristine, they told no one about it except the land owners.  Over time, in order to protect the cave, the pair decided to try to get the state of Arizona to purchase the cave and develop it to protect it, but had to do so under complete secrecy.  Can you imagine trying to get the state legislature to approve purchase when none of the representatives could even see the cave?  Anyhow, they were successful and the cave was developed, while taking extraordinary measures to protect the cave.  We passed through 6 moisture locks and a mister to keep lint out of the cave.  The paved paths through the cave are hosed down every evening.  And lastly, no pictures are allowed, so unfortunately, you’ll have to browse around the web to see pictures of the cave.  🙁

Next stop was Tucson area, and a nice visit with the Sonoran Desert, Saguaro National Park, and the majestic Saguaro Cactus.  The Saguoro cactus is the typical cactus that you think of when you think about the southwestern desert.  They are absolutely huge… They can tower well over 50 ft high.  As an example, we saw a few that towered over nearby telephone poles.  Their forms often remind people of human shapes and gestures.  Their flowers and fruit are enjoyed by birds and humans alike.  And in the West unit of Saguaro National Park, they grow quite thick… to the point where they call a stand of them a "forest."

My feelings about the whole Tucson experience were mixed.  A number of the locals have thoroughly abused their natural resources in the area.  As an example, the Coronado National Forest‘s (yep, that Coronado guy again!) Redington Pass Rd and some parts of Tucson Mountain Park just outside of Tucson are trashed… graffiti, garbage, and gun shells abound.  See my soapbox rant below.  On the other hand, we had an incredible time at the area museums including the Pima Air and Space Museum (where I got up close and personal with SR-71s Blackbird, harrier, B-52s, etc…) and the Arizona-Sonoran Desert Museum.  We had a great meal at El Charro, a Mexican restaurant started by a French chef which dates back to the 1920’s.  And we had a nice camping experience at Gilbert Ray campground in Tucson Mountain Park.

On our way out of Tucson, we went out of our way to stop at the San Xavier del Bac Mission, which is a beautiful mission dating back to the late 1700s.

In addition, I can pretty much say that the Arizona-Sonoran Desert Museum was one of the finest museum experiences I have ever had.  We must have had at least twenty folks recommend the place to us and we were not disappointed.  We arrived before they opened, and left after they closed to get the most out of our day there.  It is almost entirely outdoors and combines zoo, botanical garden, and natural history museum in one experience.  So what makes this place so spectacular?  The whole museum tries to show the entirety of the Sonoran Desert in all of its splendor in its wild environment.  They have invented "invisible fences" that allow you to walk along the path and simply see Javelina or Mule Deer just off of the trail in their natural environment.  They also strive to provide an intimate experience with the desert.  For example, in the hummingbird aviary, you can be a few inches from a perched, nested, or flying hummingbird.  I think I can sum it up with with an experience I had while talking with one of the docents (specially trained volunteer) working the free-flight raptor demonstration.  In as many words, he basically told me that the birds must be acting naturally, as if they would in the wild; otherwise, they would not show the bird.  We were very impressed with the whole experience.

 

Last stop in Arizona was Oregon Pipe National Monument.  This monument pays tribute to the Organ Pipe cactus, a large cactus that really looks nothing like the majestic Saguaro, or for that matter, organ pipes.  They climb skyward, only really branching at their base.  On our hike in the park we ran into several nice folks including a yodeling poet (you never know what you’re going to run into in the desert!).  See Teresa’s Daily Diary for more on that.  We had a nice few days near Organ Pipe, enjoying our Crazy Woman BLM campsite underneath an gorgeous ironwood tree.  Yep, that’s right, ironwood is that extremely dense and hard wood that actually sinks in water.

Well, it’s off to California to say hi to Ahh-nold.  We’ll be back…  Hasta la vista, baby!

Soapbox Rant
In my humble opinion, these areas outside of Tucson that have been horribly mismanaged by local authorities.  As an example, Redington Pass Rd climbs above Tucson with plenty of nice views of the city.  Camping is allowed on the road, but locals have abused the camping policy along the road and have used the camp spots as trash pits, party spots, and makeshift shooting ranges (we awoke to gunfire one morning).  Probably not unexpected, but given the proximity to Tucson, the Forest Service should consider banning shooting along the road, set up a proper shooting range so gun owners can enjoy the area, patrol the area to "keep the peace", and provide fee-based camping facilities with trash cans, bathrooms, and a camp host.  The citizens of Tucson should be horribly upset for such mismanagement of their federal lands by the Forest Service.  
Off Soapbox

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