09 May 2006 Tuesday

We went back to Montezuma’s Castle National Monument  this morning, along with three bus loads of foreign tourists.  This is the best preserved cliff dwelling, 5 stories high.  However, it’s not a castle and Montezuma never lived here.  It was abandoned around the 1400’s and “discovered” in the 1800’s.  Many of the artifacts in the structure were stolen long before it became a National Monument and was protected in 1902.  Since it was already named by then, the facts of not-a-castle and Montezuma-never-lived-here really didn’t seem to matter to anyone.  This pueblo ruin is pretty cool because it was 5 stories high.  Most cliff dwellings are only two or three stories high.  

We went into Sedona, AZ, once considered to be the center of the New Age movement.  What we found was a tourist trap filled with strip malls, tour guides and time share condo sales.  We went to the Visitor Info center of Oak Creek Village and got information about what’s here and what to see .  We found a brew-pub for lunch, Oak Creek Brewery, and walked around some of the art shops.  Very expensive art shops.  Many tiny things started over $100.00 and larger pieces easily went over six figures. 

We did some hiking on some beautiful red rocks.  We hiked up to Cathedral Rock”, but near the top the hike became a rock climb and the climbing got to me.  Andrew continued.  Even Andrew’s knee was bothering him after hiking down, so my knees are happy I stopped when I did.  We went to a National Forest on the edge of the city to camp.  We have a couple of points of interest in Sedona tomorrow morning and we move on.  

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08 May 2006 Monday

We got our things together and moved on.  While in Scottsdale, we stopped and toured Taliesin West, the studio and school of Frank Lloyd Wright.  We took a tour of his apprentice accommodations and a few of his buildings.  The first year apprentices stay in “tents” on th egrounds to gain an appreciation for nature.  For their second year, they design and build their own structure.  The concept is learning by doing.  We also found several contradictions in Wright’s philosophies.  He designed without always considering the client’s wishes, placing built-in furniture where HE felt it should be, and yet, he revised and changed Taliesin West many times; he embraced nature, but (according to our guide) he didn’t like the white quartz vein in the mountains the property overlooked, so he had his apprentices paint the quartz vein brown.  Weird guy.

We headed north out of Scottsdale and went to an intentional community called Arcosanti.  What we found was not at all what we expected of an “Intentional Community”.  Arcosanti is a concept high-rise type of community for 5,000 being built in the Arizona Desert.  Paolo Solari, an Italian architect who studied under Frank Lloyd Wright for 18 months and left.  He felt the single family home was not the answer to the future and felt a high-rise, self-contained community was more of an answer to the future of Urban sprawl.  According to the tour, Solari wanted more energy efficiency than Wright focused on, but we saw single paned windows in the structures they’ve built.  They’ve built some of the smaller structures, but still have some monumental construction ahead of them, according to the plans and models we saw. 

We went next to Montezuma’s Castle, but they were just closing.  We found a forest service road to camp for the night.

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Southern California

Most of our loyal readers (both of them) probably have no idea, I was born in Redondo Beach, California (a Los Angeles suburb).  Surf’s up dude!  Of course, I don’t remember any of it.  I even rooted for the Dodgers while in little league, since I figured they were from my “home” town.  So in a way, I was returning home as we crossed the California border.  

Our first stop off “the 10” in California was Joshua Tree National Park, a new destination for Teresa, but I had been there a few times before.  Turns out Josh is a strange fellow, as Teresa and I learned on a ranger walk (see below).  Perhaps the most impressive feature of the Joshua Trees are the branched limbs of this yucca-like plant.  When you enter the thicker Joshua Tree forests, you almost feel as if you are on another continent (Africa perhaps?) or another planet.  It is why Mormons passing through the area named them Joshua Trees because they look as if they are stretching their arms skyward in supplication.  And although some earlier travelers described them as grotesque, we think they are beautiful things to behold.  Some of the trees had just started to bloom when we arrived.  They sit amongst some very strangely shaped boulders and weathered granite outcrops which attract rock climbers by the thousands.  We made the mistake of visiting J-Tree (as the climbers call it) on a weekend.  The campgrounds were packed!  But we still got out on some interesting trails including a hike up to the top of Ryan mountain.  We took an interesting ranger led walk out through open desert to some rock outcrops which had philosophical and political carvings by a homesteader in the 1920’s named John Samuelson.  When the weather was clear, we had incredible views of the snow capped San Gorgonio Mountain and San Jacinto Peak, which has one of the nation’s steepest escarpments from base to summit.  On our way out towards the Salton Sea and Anza-Borrego, we drove past the majestic San Jacinto range and one of the largest wind farms I have ever seen.

About Joshua Trees:
The Joshua Tree is the indicator plant for the Mojave Desert.  If you are looking at a Joshua Tree, chances are, you are in the Mojave desert.  The Joshua Tree is not a tree, but a closer relative to the yucca family of plants.  If you take a look at some of the photos, you’ll notice each “arm” of the “tree” has a yucca like growth on it, yet it’s outer bark looks just like tree bark.  The outer layer of bark protects a pithy inner layer which collects water during rainy seasons and stores it for later use during droughts.  They are difficult to age since they have no growth rings.  They’ve estimated the average age of Joshua Trees to be about 200 years old.  Early settlers found they were no good for building or burning, possibly the only reason they still exist.  Joshua Trees require very specific conditions to branch and reproduce, including a good freeze. Because of these qualities, healthy Joshua trees are only found above certain elevations (depending on latitude).  Pollination is performed by a very specific moth with a very specifically shaped tongue in a superb example of interdependence between animal species; neither can live without the other.

I had first read about Anza-Borrego Desert State Park in a Backpacker Magazine article.  This park is absolutely huge (over 600,000 acres and growing).  It stretches all the way from the Salton Sea down to the Mexico border.  It is named for Anza, a Spanish explorer, and the borrego cimarrĂ³n (literally “wild lamb”) or bighorn sheep. Anza-Borrego is known for the occasional explosion of wildflowers, which occurs every 20 years or so when the weather cooperates.  This was not one of those years, but there were indeed some beautiful flowers that decided to bloom while we were visiting.  We also experienced some winter desert rain (aka drizzle) and gorgeous rainbows.  Much of the park is accessible to four wheel drive vehicles and we saw numerous sites from our vehicle.  We only had time to explore the area around the cute little town of Borrego Springs (which is surrounded by park lands), but managed to get out some interesting hikes.  Perhaps the highlight was our exploration of a very interesting slot canyon known simply as “The Slot.”  The canyon appears to be carved out of the badlands terrain, which you’d think would make the canyon very unstable, but indeed as you approach the bottom, it appears to solidify.  You just hope that none of those unstable rocks make their way down the canyon walls.  đŸ™‚

The next stop was LA to “unwind” for a few days and catch up with a recently married cousin of mine, Rachel.  She married Ricardo, an LA native, who was very gracious in showing us around his town.  We had a great evening at the Getty Museum enjoying drinks, overlooking LA, and listening to a really cool band called Bad Haggis.  Ricardo also showed us Hollywood, the Sunset Strip, Beverly Hills, and of course Venice Beach.  We also enjoyed some great Asian and Mexican cuisine, and hit up a little brew pub in the town of my birth called Redondo Beach Brewing Company (great red ale!)

After LA, we drove up the coast to Malibu and enjoyed some time at Point Dume State Park.  I had a quick dinner with my 2nd cousin Roger and his wife Penny at The Wood Ranch in Ventura.  That evening, we moved on to Ojai.  It was here that Teresa and I spent our first night parked clandestinely at a hotel.  We just couldn’t find any suitable pull offs, camp spots, or even hotels in the area that didn’t want to charge us a fortune.  We left before sunrise to avoid suspicion, and ended up taking a nice three hour nap up the road in the Los Padres National Forest on a pull off just before the road closed due to mud slides.  Ojai is a cute little town with an artistic and spiritual bent.  Apparently, it is home to the Krishnamurti Foundation of America, and Teresa and I found some beautiful glass art in one of the galleries.

Next stop, Santa Barbara to visit a long lost friend of mine that I met at the Tom Brown Tracker School, Mark Tollefson.  Mark is now the executive director of the Wilderness Youth Project in Santa Barbara.  We shared a pretty deep spiritual experience which changed my life forever.  It was great to catch up with Mark and meet Sharon, his wife.  We hope to spend more time with them on our next trip (July?) through the area.

All I can say about Santa Barbara is… paradise!  Gorgeous beaches, beautiful mountains, and a decent little city.  Of course, everyone else thinks so too.  The median home price is around $1.4 million, making it worse than San Francisco or NYC.  Only the people aren’t terribly friendly.  I guess they can afford to be that way.  We did enjoyed visiting Santa Barbara Mission, Chumash Painted Cave including outstanding views of the mountainous Los Padres National Forest, and the Santa Barbara Brewing Company.

Our next stop was Carrizo Plains National Monument.  This is a fairly new monument and is missing from many maps, but we did eventually manage to find a road that headed into the heart of the monument.  From the sky, the Carrizo Plains probably has the best view of the San Andreas fault, but it is difficult to see from the ground.  However, Teresa and I hiked out to see a spot in the landscape where a dry creek/wash took two ninety degree turns due to relatively recent faulting action (1857) along the San Andreas.  It is hard to imagine what it must be like to experience a big earthquake here.  During former earthquakes, there are written stories indicating that fence posts across the fault were offset over 20 feet.  That’s some pretty powerful geologic action!  Due to recent rains, we were lucky enough to see green fields filled with beautiful yellow flowers throughout the monument.  After a pleasant day on the plains, we marched towards the valley of death.

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07 May 2006 Sunday

We had more errands to get done; we had a package to ship and groceries to buy.  We found our newest, favorite store; Trader Joe’s!  this store is great!  It’s healthy food, much of it organic, tasty and CHEAP!  They have Charles Shaw wine for $2.99 per bottle that’s good (in California, it’s $1.99 and known as Two-Buck Chuck).  Trader Joe’s brands of sauces and other things are all natural, much of it organic and tastes good.  We stocked up as much as we could with limited space.

We got a little bit of computer work done and Andrew got a blog update for Southern California and Death Valley.   We went to a Mexican place called Blue Adobe for dinner.

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06 May 2006 Saturday

Jill had to work today (she’s a vet) and Cott has to be available via computer for work, so Andrew and I got out and ran some errands.  We’ve been having some trouble with our propane camp stove, so we stopped at an REI, but they couldn’t help us.  However, they were having a sale and we each got a new pair of hiking pants with zip-off legs.  We went to Del-Rae’s, a western and camping supply store where we got a replacement regulator.  We got back to Jill and Cott’s and they had cooked dinner for us.  We also sampled some of their homebrew.

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05 May 2006 Friday

We thought about getting up early for a sunrise over the Grand Canyon, but at 5am, we decided we were still sore and tired enough from our backpack that we could allow ourselves to sleep in.  We had breakfast at camp and then headed back into the park.  We parked at the Market Plaza and caught the free shuttle to several overlooks and viewpoints.  At the Grand Canyon, the shuttle is voluntary, but encouraged.  At Zion, the shuttle was mandatory.  We saw many people on the shuttles, it beats the heck out of parking hassles.  Another great aspect of the shuttle is that you can hike from point to point and catch the shuttle back to your car or continue with your sightseeing.   We stopped at the east side of the south rim and saw several overlooks, then headed out to the west side of the south rim, towards Hermit’s Rest, a less developed area.  By the time the shuttle got us to Hopi Point, it had started raining and the wind was blowing hard.  We got off, looked around and then tried to find shelter from the wind until the shuttle heading back to the east side showed up.  We got back to the east side and the weather was better.  We stopped for lunch and headed out to Phoenix.  

We got to Cott and Jill Lang’s place in Scottsdale, AZ in time for dinner; pizza out at Oggie’s, a restaurant and brewery.  They have two little girls, Mina, less than a year old, ad Lucy, almost 3.  Andrew and I had stopped by Toys-R-Us to get a couple of stuffed toys for the girls and they were a hit!  Before we left, Lucy had named the teddy bear “Fred” and was he was “reading” with her, helping to turn the pages of the book.  Mina had “Penghy’s” soft flipper firmly gripped in one hand most of the time we were there.

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04 May 2006 Thursday

We got up early, broke camp and were on the trail by 6am.  We wanted to hike up to the rim before it got too hot.  It’s getting up in the 90’s already at the bottom of the canyon.  The north rim is still closed for the winter, were on the south rim.  We passed several people on the way.  We stopped and talked with some folks from England, who thought it was a shame that America has all these amazing places to go and never enough vacation time to enjoy them.  We agreed completely!

We got to the rim, dropped our packs at the truck and went to find lunch.  We ended up at the Arizona Room Restaurant near the Bright Angel Lodge.  They offered a dinner entree with soup or salad and two side items with bread.  And we were hungry enough to eat ALL of it (and we did!).  Along with lots of iced tea and a 20 oz beer each.  So afterwards, we waddled around some of the historic buildings.  Most of these buildings were done by a woman architect Mary Jane Colter for the Fred Harvey Company.  Women architects were not taken seriously in those days (early 1900’s), so she was quite a maverick.  Fred Harvey made his fortune creating fine dining on railroad cars and at hotels along the rail line at a time when the west was opening up to travelers.  He was also involved in establishing dining in the newly established National Parks, such as the Grand Canyon.  The Fred Harvey name is still used on many of the parks we’ve visited.

While at lunch, we saw this guy feeding the squirrels, even though there are lots of signs stating “Please Don’t Feed the Wildlife!” and treats of fines.   I could just imagine what he and his wife were saying, “Isn’t he cute?  Here have another peanut.  Here, climb into my pocket for the peanut…”  IDIOT!  No wonder they have 15-20 squirrel bites reported EVERY DAY at the Grand Canyon.  Idiots like this train the squirrels that people will feed them, and when the next person doesn’t, they bite and are destroyed.  

We saw some California Condors flying in the canyon.  These birds have a wingspan of 9 feet.  That’s 9 FEET!  They’re huge!  The condors are an endangered species and were on the verge of extinction by 1970’s, with a population of only 22 birds.  They’ve been working for decades to increase the population and reintroduce them into the wild.  I believe they now number about 300 birds.  It was amazing to see 5 of them sunning on the rocks of the canyon.   We were exhausted, but continued walking around for a little while longer.  We got some ice cream and headed out.  And now for our local forest service campsite.

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03 May 2006 Wednesday

We got an early start this morning to hike down to the river and back.  We started about 5:30-6am, but most of the campground was already up by then.  Many people got up and hiked out to the Plateau for sunrise.  Others were either hiking down to the river (like us), down to Phantom Ranch, another campground and lodge at the bottom of the canyon, or they were hiking out.

We saw lots of people on the trail during our 3 mile hike down to the mighty Colorado River that carved the Grand Canyon.  We went down most of our elevation in one part of the trail known as the Devil’s Corkscrew, a series of steep switchbacks and steps.  We got to the river and found a small sandy beach where we could cool our hot, tired feet.  Andrew and I found a nice bunch of rocks under the shade of a shrub and had lunch.  We had to fight off a couple of ground squirrels that tried to join us.  We insisted this was a table for two!

We were enjoying the sounds of the river when a couple of folks came by.  Then wave after wave of twenty-somethings came in… 6 more… 8 more… 4 more… and more and more and more!  We asked one of the guys near us if they were all together.  He said, Oh no, there were only 10 people in his group.  There were 35 people in the other group.  ONLY 10!!  35 in the other group!?!  Well, it was getting pretty crowded on our little 20 foot patch of sand on the river.  We moved on up to a rest area called “River Rest”.  It’s a covered pavilion not far from the junction of the creek and the river.  We hung out there for several hours, waiting for the day to cool down.  The park cautions about hiking in the heat of the day.  We saw some kayakers and rafts going down the river while we were hanging out.  We talked to several people while at River Rest, some going up canyon, some going down canyon.

At 2:30, we headed back up the canyon to Indian Gardens.  The park tells you to allow twice the time to hike up as it takes to hike down, but it took us about the same amount of time.  When we got back, our feet hurt from the pounding.  We got back to camp and cleaned up at the faucet in camp.  I got the wash my hair, but I forgot to bring a comb or brush, so I may be coming out with dreadlocks!  We ate most of the food we brought and drank the rest of the wine (no sense in carrying that stuff out, you know) and were in bed by dark.  We hike out in the morning.

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02 May 2006 Tuesday

We sat an alarm to get up early, we want to be on the trail by 6am.  It’s cool up here on the rim, in the 30’s this morning.  But at the bottom of the canyon, the lows are only in the 50’s and 60’s and the daytime highs can get into the 90’s by the river.  We got our stuff together, threw the last few things into our backpacks and made it to the trailhead by 6… right on time.

The hike down into the canyon was beautiful!  We didn’t see any of the mule rides while we were on the trail, but we saw plenty of evidence (phew!).  We stopped and talked with a few folks on the trail and got to Indian Gardens campground and found there was only one other camp set up and they weren’t home.  We set up camp and saw the first of several mule trains coming thru.  We ate brunch- about 10am.  We don’t really have an agenda today, except to hike out to Plateau Point for a sunset dinner tonight, about a 1.5 mile hike, mostly level.

We just lounged around camp for the afternoon.  A couple of hours before dark we got our dinner stuff together and headed out to Plateau Point.  This hike goes out on one of the plateaus in the canyon (thus the name) and leads out to a few rock out crops that overlooks the Colorado River.   We took our camp stove out, had dinner and stayed for the sunset.  No dinner reservations required and the most exquisite view!  We had enough daylight to hike most of the way back and we had our headlamps to make it the rest of the way.  On the way back we startled some deer that were browsing just off the trail (they startled us just as much!)  We came back, had a sip of wine and fell fast asleep.

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01 May 2006 Monday

We stopped at the information office outside Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument  to ask about hikes and attractions.  Grand Staircase if not as developed a park as Zion, Bryce or Grand Canyon.  It sounds like there are some great hikes, rock formations and slot canyons, but many are down dirt or gravels roads.  We don’t have time to explore this park now, but we will keep this information and return another time.  

Another stop is Page, Arizona to check out Antelope Canyon.  Antelope Canyon is a fabulous slot canyon that we’ve seen incredible photos of.  We found out that Antelope Canyon is on land owned by the Navajo Nation and visitation is closely monitored.  You can only get there on a tour or by shuttle bus.  There is an upper and lower Antelope Canyon.  There is a fee to enter the area ($6.00) and a fee for both shuttles to the upper and lower canyons ($12.00 for one, $16.00 for the other).  A guided tour is $29.00.  We don’t have time to make a worthwhile trip and $60.00+ is a bit outside our budget right now, so we make our notes to include this when we come back to explore Grand Staircase.  

We’ve got to hurry now to see if we can get a backpacking permit to go into the Grand Canyon overnight.  I’ve never been to the Grand Canyon National Park and it’s been on my list for a long time.  So when we got there, Andrew wanted to rush to the backcountry permit office and I wanted to SEE THE GRAND CANYON!!!  I annoyed the heck out of him with too many photos from the Desert View of the South Rim.  

We got to the backcountry permit office about 30 minutes before it closed.  While we were waiting, we overhead an older gent in front of us talking to a ranger about his rim to rim hike today.  We’ve heard of the rim to rim to rim challenge… it involves starting at one rim, hiking down to the river and up to the next rim, turning around and hiking back down to the river and back up again.  OUCH!  That’s 46 miles of hiking and 20,000 feet of differential elevation!  In one day!  We’re not doing that on this trip.  In the conversation we were eavesdropping on, this guy was going to do a rim to rim, but he wasn’t feeling well, so he just hiked to the river and back.  Still a pretty significant hike.

It was our turn and we asked about camping availability at the river campsites and nothing was available.  There is a campground at a mid-point down the canyon, Indian Gardens, and it has an opening for 2 nights.  Our plan is to hike 4.5 miles down to our campground, stay overnight, do a day hike down to the river and back, then hike out the last day. 

We also got info on dispersed camping just outside the park and headed there for a site for the night.  The first site we found had a sign reading “Hunters- Watch for people in this area” and at the bottom “CDC- Hantavirus“.  We decided to find another site.

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