We crossed the border into Canada via the Top of the World highway. We were
in clouds nearly the whole ride, but every now and then you could make out the rolling
hills. We hit our
Northernmost point on this part of our journey, at a latitude 64.23N.
The arctic circle is at 66.56083N or about 160 miles north of our position on the so called "highway." We had a couple of opportunities to head up to the Arctic
Circle, but why? Just for a photo beside a sign? Naaa... Besides, we
were really tired of getting rained on and were ready to head Southeast to better
weather.
As I alluded before, Teresa and I were getting tired of traveling. This is
a hard thing to describe to those who have never traveled over an extended period
of time. I've had a friend describe this experience while hiking the
PCT. After entering Yosemite,
one of the most gorgeous places in the USA, and a third of the way up the PCT, he described simply feeling numb to the gorgeous scenery and had to get off the trail for a long while.
This comes pretty close to describing the way we felt. But underneath that
numbness lies a thousand emotions. At times, both Teresa and I just simply
felt like crying, with no good reason as to why.
Looking back on it, I suppose there were some things we could have done to help
alleviate the emotional crunch. Like a rolling stone, we had so much we wanted
to see... so we kept moving from place to place, never staying in the same place
for more than a day or two.
We didn't strike up very many lasting relationships with the other like-minded folks
we met. And we only got the "feel" of a given area, without deeper exploration.
This constant moving became a source of our fatigue. In addition, our camper
shell was failing us as described
here, leaking on us after days of rain. But even if it hadn't leaked,
having to deal with the rain in such small quarters would have driven us crazy.
Finally, our new homestead back in Colorado was calling us, and we were eager start
working on it.
But first, we had to get through Canada. And Canada is huge! It is larger
in square acreage than the US, but it only has 30 million people versus the US's
300 million or so... it has one of the lowest
population densities in the world. And with few exceptions, most of
the population lives within a 3 hours drive of the US border. With one
nasty exception, the people in Canada were wonderful. They generally
seem to be more enviro-friendly and down-to-earth. Most of the people I've met are incredibly friendly and helpful.
On the other hand, they seem to have the same kind of materialism and overdone advertising
plaguing the US. In some regards (discussed below), it is worse in Canada.
Their taxes are horrendously high, but their government also has to provide the same level
of service to their citizens as the US. They have the same standard of living,
but they have a tenth of the population. Compounding the issue, thanks to
GW, the American dollar is so weak, the cash exchange rate was one to one.
In the past, one US dollar would buy a dollar and a quarter Canadian. Canada
was not good to us financially.
The first hint we were in Canada was the speed limit. "Maximum 90"!
Wohoo! Wait, that's 90 kilometers an hour, not miles per hour. Oh well.
Heck, our loaded truck couldn't do 90 mph even if we wanted it to.
Our first populated stop in Canada was Dawson City,
which came to fame during the
Klondike Gold Rush. The town still feels like it is in the gold rush
era. For example, the visitors center attendants were dressed in era clothing,
and the streets were still dirt with boardwalks to keep pedestrians out of the muck.
We did a hike up to the Midnight Dome and toured the Jack
London
Interpretive Centre. Remember Jack London?
He wrote some of the few high school (or was it middle school?) classics I actually
enjoyed, including Call of
the Wild and To Build
A Fire. They even had a restored cabin on the property that is
similar to the one that he may have lived in during his gold rush fever days.
Obviously, his time in the Klondike inspired his most famous books, and it was neat
to see the area that inspired these works.
We arrived in Whitehorse, capital
of Yukon Territory after two more days of
driving, stopping at a few sites along the way.
Whitehorse was really the first reasonable town we had seen in weeks.
It even had a Mall*Wart (AKA
Sprawlmart) and a huge store called the
Real Canadian Superstore, Canada's
homegrown version of Sprawlmart. We
saw the Frantic Follies, which was a pretty
funny vaudeville revue which has been running for over 37 years! And of course,
we had to check out the local brewery.
We did about three more days of driving, seeing some interesting sites along the Alaska Highway, including our first herd of wild buffalo, some goats, and caribou.
We passed through the
Sign Post Forest in Watson Lake.
We also saw our first bear, a black bear with two cubs, near Fort St. John. Unfortunately, we couldn't get our camera out in time.
We arrived in Dawson
Creek, not to be confused with Dawson City. Dawson Creek is the historic start of the Alaska Highway.
It was here that
we ran into the
ugly American in a visitors center. Or more properly,
ugly US citizen. The ones we saw were, not surprisingly, from
the more affluent areas of South Florida. [Or should I say effluent? :-) ] I do my best to not be an
ugly American, and in doing so, I try not to call the US "America" or
even "North America" while in Canada. Many of us forget, Canada is part of North America too!
Our first visit within a Parks Canada Park
was in Jasper/Bannf
National Parks in the Canadian Rockies. We went ahead and purchased a
Parks Canada Annual Pass since we figured we'd be in the Canadian Rockies
for a few days. It cost a whopping $123 CAN for a family pass (on a good day,
this would be equivalent to $100 USD). (The
Golden Eagle USA Annual Park Passes only cost $65.) There were a couple
of things that really bothered me about the Canadian Parks. First of all,
major Canadian Highways pass through some of the parks. (While this does occur
in some USA parks, it is quite rare.)
Second, there are townships in all of the parks we visited. I'm not talking
government owned villages within the park like
Grand Canyon Village. These are normal towns, with privately owned
city centers, privately owned homes, local governances, rampant shopping opportunities,
and rampant commercialism. Third, at many of the most beautiful sites, there
is private lodging available, sometimes horrendously disturbing the natural beauty.
Lake Louise in Banff is an exquisite site, destroyed by a huge
chateau right in front of it.
I'm not sure why Parks Canada took such a different approach to managing their parks.
Perhaps the townships were in place before the parks were
established? Perhaps
their mission statement
(vs. NPS statement) is key.
The NPS stresses preservation first, while Parks Canada stresses the "protection
and presentation." In some respects, maybe this is a good thing. Perhaps
it gets people who are less likely to visit parks, into the parks, and that is a
good thing! It just isn't our thing. Oh well.
We spent a few days in Jasper, enjoying the
Miette Hot Springs, and doing a few walks.
At the Southeastern edge
of Jasper, we walked on the rapidly shrinking
Athabasca Glacier, part of the Columbia Icefield which forms the hydrographic
apex of North America where water flows to the Arctic, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans.
We explored the ever beautiful Lake Louise, enjoying tea at a teahouse a good ways up a trail.
By the time we got in to Banff township, the exhaustion of continued travel was
really setting in. We decided to book it out of Banff and head home to Colorado.
Of course, we had to stop at the
Vulcan Trek Station.
We made a quick stop at
Waterton Lakes (Parks Canada), which, when combined with
Glacier National Park (NPS), forms the
Glacier Waterton International Peace Park.
We entered the USA and drove through Glacier,
doing a short walk along the way.
We drove through Yellowstone, but stopped
long enough to see Old Faithful erupt twice, and view a number of other geysers,
hot springs, paint pots, and fumaroles.
At this point, we were hitting extremely
smoky skies from a HUGE fire burning in
Montana and 20 others in Idaho and Wyoming. We entered Grand
Teton National Park, but could hardly see the mountains through the smoke. We did,
however, see our first moose.
In Dubois, WY, we had to stop and ride the wild Jackelope. Hmmm... and I always thought they were bigger in Texas?
We finally crossed into Colorado in a marathon day of driving. I cannot say
it any better than Teresa did in her
diary
entry. "As we drove thru southern Wyoming and into Colorado, the terrain changed from heavily treed forests to treeless sagebrush prairies. On the horizon we could see the mountains rise with the aspens glowing golden yellow. It started to feel like we were going home. ...And now we have to build one."
NOTE: As the bulk of our travels are now completed, this blog is
going to enter a new era of more frequent and less formal posts. Most will
be about the building of our house and getting set up on our land. I've set
up some categories, so if you are only interested in a particular topic, you can
simply filter things out by category by clicking on the category of interest on
the right side of the screen under the calendar.
We still hope to get around to editing some movies, so stay tuned for more
exciting videos. 
As we begin to build our new home, we enter a very stressful time. We appreciate
everyone's continued support!
Yikes! We hope no one was hurt.
Gotta love Canadian signs.
Is this Wynona's Big Brown Beaver?