We decided to stay another night at the B&B to rest up and escape the
rain. We talked with several of the others staying there at
breakfast. After spending a little time on the computers, we went down a
couple of blocks to the Halibut House for lunch. It's the first time I've
had Copper River Red Salmon lightly battered and fried like fish and
chips. It was good, but a bit unusual.
We decided to take a wildlife and glacier tour today on The Lu-Lu Belle,
even though it's raining. When we called, they said the wildlife doesn't
care that it's raining. Hummm, good point. The Lu-Lu Belle is quite
a ship and Captain Fred is quite a character. He started off by
introducing himself and telling us to wipe the crap off our shoes before
boarding because he's got oriental carpets in there. HE DID! It was
a beautiful ship which, we found out on his website later, he built
himself. Captain Fred is quite the talker too. He must have been a
stand-up comic in a previous life. He really knows the history of the
area, Prince William Sound and where the wildlife is. Just leaving port he
told us about how some of the commercial fishing boats operated and how the
canneries worked.
On our way out, we saw several sea otters
just hanging around, floating on
their backs, waiting for suppertime. We motored past some beautiful
waterfalls and shoreline, all the while, Captain Fred is talking, telling us all
about Alaska and the town of Valdez, and we just MUST hike to the Valdez Glacier
tomorrow. We'll just have to extend you're stay another day or
two.
We went up to a rocky shore an was some
puffins. They are the cutest
little birds! Captain Fred got the bow of the boat right inside the cave
where they were nesting! I can't believe that he got his boat that close
to the rocks!! We saw another spot with some puffins and turned to our
left.... and saw several rocks covered with Steller's Sea Lions! We slowly went
by what could have been a hundred sea lions lying around on the rocks, just
flapping and belching, a couple scratching an itch. It smelled a lot like
a Chinese grocery store, a bit fishy.
Captain Fred is telling us more stories, about the big earthquake that hit in
1964 that completely destroyed the town and the museum that we just HAVE to
see... "But", he says, "you're hiking to the glacier tomorrow and
fishing the day after... well, you'll just have to stay another week, maybe
two..." You could hear the grin in his voice.
We arrived out to sea where one of the crew had sighted a whale. They
can stay down for quite a while, and Captain Fred starts a count of how many
minutes since it was last seen. The whale surface again with a blow,
breaks the water a few times for a few breaths, then takes a dive, showing us
the classic fluke (tail) photo. Captain Fred speeds to the area where it
just went down and starts counting again, how many minutes he's been down.
Once again, the whale surfaces with a blow, bobs along the surface a few times
breathing, then takes a dive again. Captain Fred is talking us thru
it..."Here it comes, the arched back, he's diving, wait for it... and NOW,
take the picture now!" The perfect whale tail shot!
Our next stop is the Columbia Glacier, the most active glacier in this
area. As we approached, we saw several icebergs floating in the
water. Some of the icebergs were the most incredible blue, some were black
and of course, some were white. The blue color comes from having all the
air pushed out of the ice from the pressure of the glacier above. The
black ones have picked up lots of dirt and rocks, they have probably come from
the bottom or sides of the glacier. The white ones are from nearer the top
of the glacier. The crew took pictures with our cameras of anyone who
wanted in front of one really spectacular iceberg. They also supplied a
few props. Since many people use these photos on their Holiday cards, they
supplied "Merry Christmas" and "Happy Hanukah" signs for the
photos.
We waited to see the glacier "calve", or drop large icebergs into
the water. Captain Fred showed us what to look for, large cracks in the
glacier face, points extending, ready to drop. As we were watching one
area just ahead, a huge chunk dropped off to our left and behind us. We
all turn to see the wave in the water and we missed another area of
calving. We all have our cameras trained on the wrong spot.
As we were leaving the glacier, we passed by some
Harbor Seals lying on a
couple icebergs. These guys are more shy than the Stellar Sea lions and
they would slip into the water as we passed by.
As we made our way back to port, Captain Fred told us more of the wonderful
things to do in Valdez, well, we may as well stay until Labor Day, we've got so
much to do here! (wink)
We had a great time on the boat tour, even if it was cold and rainy. We boarded the boat at 2pm and
didn't get back until well after 9pm. It was so late by the time we got
back, we were glad we had dinner on the boat. Their galley was serving
soup in a bread bowl and Andrew got a chili and I got a tasty clam
chowder. At $5.00 per bowl, it was by far the cheapest meal we've ever had
in Alaska.